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ODOP PRODUCT – BAPATLA DISTRICT
CHIRALA SILK SAREES (Kuppadam)

A Hallmark of Chirala Town of Andhra Pradesh State

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INTRODUCTION

The Chirala Town was also known as Kshirapuri, which translates as the sea looks as white as milk. The name of the town has got transformed to Chirala. Chirala in the regional language means Sari. The name “Chirala” is derived from the Telugu words “chira” meaning saree and “ala” meaning wave. This reflects the town’s history of being a major hub for handloom saree production.

The looms used in Chirala are mostly pit looms. The Chirala is famous for the softness and durability the handloom fabrics and also suites all the climatic conditions. Mainly Chirala looms manufactures cotton, pure silk sarees with half fine zari, with jacquard weave and dress materials.

In Chirala City, 40% population belongs to Padmasali & Devanga community. These communities are majorly depending on handloom profession. In early days, the weavers are weaving in plain & Jacquard Kuppadam sarees. The later generation of weavers are converted into Kuppadam border sarees. Chirala is having overall ~12000 Weaver Community and also having 24 Primary Weavers Cooperative Societies. Kuppadam sarees are woven by cooperative societies and under Master Weavers.

ABOUT KUPPADAM

The “Kuppadam” process of weaving originated from Tamilnadu, India. But that process was only limited to weaving dhoti’s with borders. The significant difference between Kanchi sarees weaving and Kuppadam weaving is a thin line. The Kanchi sarees borders are stitched with the help of assistant weaver but kuppadam process doesn’t need an assistant as that is done with interlocking system/catch card system and that interlocking process name is “Koopadam”, so the process is called by name “Kuppadam”. Only one-inch borders were weaved in Tamilnadu and this Kuppadam saree process also started in Chirala, between 1998-2000 and one of the then Master Weavers Mr. Kurapati Subba Rao also announced a reward of 10 Grams gold to weavers weaving Kuppadam Sarees as that demands high-skill set from the weaver.

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# Kuppadam Saree (Chirala Silk)

Mr. Kurapati Subba Rao is also honoured with a National Award for propelling the Kuppadam saree process. Mr. Bitra Pullaiah from Chirala, Andhra Pradesh discovered a new addition in Kuppadam process by embedding a SPRING in the shuttle that feeds the border thread. The spring in the shuttle enables the weaver to determine the tightness of the thread. It gives more comfort in weaving of Kuppadam Sarees. Unlike 1 inch border in Tamil Nadu, Chirala weavers started weaving 12-15 inches border with Kuppadam Sarees.

The temple-motif in border of this Kuppadam sarees earned a great degree of attention amongst Brahmin-women draping them in Hindu-Rituals and ceremonies. In today’s context Kuppadam sarees are prominently used by all community women for events and Kuppadam sarees aesthetics goes with all age groups. Pythony, Tie & Dye and tissue sarees are the new configurations of Kuppadam border sarees today.

PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS

Weave  Plain & Twill
Ends per Inch 84
Picks per Inch 76
Reed number 80s & 84s
Count of yarn 80s
Type of yarn used in Warp Cotton, Silk & Zari
Type of yarn used in weft Cotton and Silk
Using yarn Cotton & Silk (2-ply and 3ply)
Saree width 1.19 mts
Saree length 6.50 mts

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PROCESS OF MAKING KUPPADAM

Dyeing: A dyeing process is the interaction between a dye and a fibre, as well as the movement of dye into the internal part of fibre. Generally, a dyeing process involves adsorption (transfer of dyes from the aqueous solution onto the fibre surface) and diffusion (dyes diffused into the fibre).

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# Dyeing process of Yarn

Warping: Warping is a process, which converts the Hank yarn into a linear form to give the length on the loom. Warping is done on a huge drum and the width and desired quality of the product is decided at this stage. The drum also helps to calculate number of the length and the length of the warp. The warp is a set of threads attached to the loom length-wise before weaving begins. Warping is the process of creating the base yarn that runs among the length of fabric through which the “weft yarn are filled in to make the fabric. For a 46-Inch width saree, over 3200 individual yarns run among the warp of the saree.

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# Warping process

Street Sizing: Sizing is a pre loom process, which is unique to handloom weaving. Sizing is done to give temporary strength to single yarn. After warping is done, the warp is stretched out and sizing material is applied to add strength and lubricate the yarn.Natural adhesives like Rice, Maize wheat flour are used depending upon availability and region. In most handloom centres rice starch mixed with coconut oil is applied as sizing material. This starch in the yarn is removed only after one are two washes of the woven fabric products.

Sizing is either carried out by the weavers or skilled groups in the village. Typically, depending on the warp length, 3 are 4 persons are required to carry out stretched yarn, special brushes are used to spread and dry the starch on the yarn. Since this activity is carried out on the street, this is called as “street sizing”.

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# Street Sizing Process

Attaching Yarn: Individual warp threads are drawn through handles taken through a set of reed and tied on Beam located on both ends of the loom. The handles separate the warp into sections which allows the weft threads to pass between them. Women/Men attach each single yarn to the existing yarn of the warp with help of ash. After dressing the warp, the warp is generally attached to the ends of the existing warp. This is then pulled onto the other side of the handles and reed.

The winding yarn fixed on the raati and placed to the left of a person winding it. The person holds the creel in his right hand and rotates it with his palm and fingers while the thread is held firmly in the left hand and guided by the fingers. In another method, the winder sits on the floor with their legs stretched straight, the left leg over the right leg. A wooden log is placed on their right. The creeks tip is placed between the big toe and adjoining toe of the left leg. The long axis is placed on the wooden log. The creek is the rotated with the palm and fingers of the right hand while the thread is guided by the left hand. Winding the yarn on tin creel requires a spinning wheel with an attachment. The creel is fixed on the long spindle. It’s axis is connected with the fly wheel which is rotated with the help of a crank attached to it’s axis. This in turn rotates the tin creel. The dried yarn is fixed on a raati and placed to the left. The spinning wheel is placed to the right. The fly wheel is rotated with the right hand while the left hand guides the thread on the tin creel. As soon as the creel is full, it is replaced by the empty creel.

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Weaving: Weaving is a method of textiles production in which two distinct sets of yarn of threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. The longitudinal treads are called the warp and the horizontal threads are called the weft, woof or filling. The method in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that hold the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven product is created with one of three basic weaves: Plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. Woven cloth can be plain or classic (in one colour or a sample pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic designs.

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# Weaving of a Kuppadam Saree

PROMOTION & INFORMATION DISSEMINATION

i. Promotion of Activities done through Districts/State/Other Social Media website tagging ODOP handle (including promotional activities in vernacular languages:

The promotion activities done through Bapatla District Website and State Website and given promotional activities in vernacular languages through news papers.

@apcohandlooms

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#andhrahandlooms

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#odop

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https://bapatla.ap.gov.in/odop/

https://handlooms.ap.gov.in/odop.html

https://apcohandlooms.com/product-category/sarees/cotton-silk-sarees/Chirala-saree/https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0aywInvfLo/

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/4809/a-synopsis-of-dexterity-and-skills-of-Chirala-cluster

https://www.instagram.com/lakshmi_saress/

https://www.instagram.com/wholesale_handloom_saree/?hl=en

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hMU6VUSpaQ

Product & Weaver Story through News Papers

As Chirala Silk Saree is famous traditional product, several newspapers (both vernacular and English) covered the product, weaver and success stories.

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# News Paper articles about the Departmental Support for Chirala Silk Sarees

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# News paper Article on the G.I. proposals for Chirala Silk Saree

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# Success Story of Saree Divas Group for promotion of Chirala Silk Saree

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# National Handloom Day celebrations 2023 & Handloom Walk

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# Coverage of New Innovations by the Chirala Silk Saree Weavers

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# National Handloom Day Celebrations and Felicitation of Prominent Weavers of Chirala Silk Sarees.

ii. Number of Exhibitions conducted/participated in by the District for ODOP Promotion:

Societies/Producers of Chirala Silk Sarees participated in several exhibitions as shown below and showered with highest traction and sales.

S. No. Name & Venue Date No. of Societies / Producers Participated
1 National Handloom Day/Exhibition, 2023 at PEOPLE’s PLAZA, Hyderabad, Telangana State from 06.08.2023 to 15.08.2023 (10) days  06.08.2023 to 28.07.2023 7
2 National Handloom Day/Exhibition, 2023 at Maris Stella Indoor Stadium at PantaKaluva Road, Vijayawada  07.08.2023 (1Week) 5
3 Handloom Exhibition Cum-Sale-2023 at Sri Sathya Sai Nigamagamam, Sri Nagar Colony, Hyderabad, Telengana State from 27.10.2023 to 02.11.2023 (7) days 27.10.2023 to 02.11.2023 8
4 State Level Exhibition -2023 under Marketing at M/s SR Convention, Near Ankalamma Temple, Old Tirchanoor Road, Tirupati from 30.10.2023 to 08.11.2023 (10)days 30.10.2023 to 08.11.2023 4
5 Handloom Exhibition Cum-Sale-2023-24 at Silparamam, Tiruchunapalli Road, Thirupathi from 20.12.2023 to 02.01.2024 (14) days 20.12.2023 to 02.01.2024 9
6 Gandhi BunkarMela National Handloom Exhibition Cum-Sale 2023-24 at Peoples Plaza, Hyderabad,Telangana State from 10.01.2024 to 23.01.2024 (14) days 10.01.2024 to 23.01.2024 11

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# Participation in Hyderabad Exhibition (10.01.2024 to 23.01.2024)

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# Participation in Vijayawada Exhibition (07.08.2023 to 13.08.2023)

iii. Whether the District website has details of the Officer in-charge for ODOP related activities in the District are available on the District website?

Yes.  Details of Officer In-charge of the ODOP Activities:

Name: Sri B. Udaya Kumar,
DHTO/Assistant Director (H&T),
Bapatla District.
Mobile Number: 9848483727
https://bapatla.ap.gov.in/odop/

iv) Whether the district website has details about a Dedicated ODOP team?

Yes. https://bapatla.ap.gov.in/odop/

Dedicated ODOP Team:

1.Name: Sri J. Raja Vardhana Rao
Development Officer (H&T)
Mobile Number: 8897084032

2.Name: Smt. G. Venkata Lakshmi
Assistant Development Officer (H&T)
Mobile Number: 9640052494

v) Whether the District website has a dedicated helpline number/email for ODOP beneficiaries?

Yes. https://bapatla.ap.gov.in/odop/

Helpline number & e-mail ID for ODOP Beneficiaries:

DHTO Mobile Number: 9848483727
District official mail id: dhto.bapatla.hnt@gmail.com

vi) Whether the District website has detailed information about the ODOP product?

Yes. The detailed information about ODOP Product is disseminated in Bapatla District Website https://bapatla.ap.gov.in/odop/

vii) Does the district have a documented success story/best practices document/ brochure?

Yes. Success Story:

KSR Handlooms founded in the year 1990 out of the Entrepreneurial spirit of Mr. Kouthavarapu Srinivasa Rao Garu Chairman & Managing Director and his wife Mrs.K. Bala Prabhavathi is the Director of “KSR HANDLOOMS PVT. LTD” located in Chirala, Andhra Pradesh. He started his career as a Master Weaver after the successful entrepreneurship in the year 2010 with the 200 weavers incorporated as a company in the name of KSR Handlooms Pvt. Ltd. He has introduced a Chirala Unique brand of “Kuppadam Sarees” and business values. He continuously focused on the product of Pure Cotton sarees, Cotton silk sarees and Pure silk sarees in Domestic and International Market into the State ofthe Art infrastructure facilities, adopted modern technology and upgraded ethnic products. The company continuously observing the latest fashion trends. KSR HANDLOOMS PVT. LTD is one of the largest single located In-house manufacturing unit like Warping, Dyeing, Weaving, Printing, Embroidery, Garments, Finishing and R&D Design Studio in the country. The company has given employment for more than 2000 weavers directly and indirectly. The company unique product is ethic handloom sarees, dress materials and Kurtis.

Present Status of the KSR Handlooms:

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ODOP Product Brochure link:

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viii) Whether the District website has a Grievance Redressal form?

Yes. Grievance redressal have 2 channels i.e., through ODOP Cell & Spandana.
Spandana link: https://jaganannakuchebudham.ap.gov.in/

ix) Whether the District website has details about export(procedures/regulations/requirements/support)?

Yes. State government has come up with impressive export policy which covers the entire ecosystem of the exports and link of the same is mentioned below:
AP Export Policy: https://www.apindustries.gov.in/APIndus/Data/policies/9.-AP-Export-Promotion-Policy-2022-27.pdf

x) Whether the District website has details of the upcoming events?

Yes. The following are the tentative dates for the proposed events through-out the year for the benefit of the Chirala Silk Saree:

S.No. Event Tentative Dates & location
1 Cluster Awareness June 1st, 2024; Bapatla
2 ODOP Awareness May 15th, 2024; Chirala
3 Buyer Seller Meet July 15th, 2024, Chirala
4 Exhibition Sep 1st ,2024; Bapatla
5 National Handloom Day Aug 7th, 2024; Chirala

xi) Whether the District website has a list of authorized suppliers for ODOP Product with Quality Packaging meeting international Quality Standards?

Yes. The following are the some of the list of authorized suppliers:

S.No. Name  Organization type  Address Contact 
1 KSR Handlooms Manufacturer/Seller KSR Handlooms Private Ltd., Door No 2-102-3, Vivekananda Nagar Colony, Kothapeta, Chirala-523157, Bapatla District, A.P. https://www.ksrhandlooms.com/ 9701368531
2 ABC Fashions Manufacturer/Seller Door No 10-124 A, Ramakrishnapuram, Chirala – 523155 8460553213
3 Bala Handlooms Manufacturer/Seller Near Anjaneyulu Ricemill, Devangapuri, Chirala https://www.balahandlooms.in/ 9949961431
4 Gowtham Handlooms Manufacturer/Seller Door No 13-2-28-1, Behind Vegetable Market, Jandrapeta, Chirala-523155 7947107372
5 DSR Handlooms Manufacturer/Seller Door No: (2B), ARMHSchool Road, Chirala-523155 (Pedda Radam Centre) 7947105277
6 Gutti Venkaiah Master Weaver Devangapuri, Bearakavari Street, Chirala 9290646343
7 InumarthiNagendraBabu Master Weaver Hastinapuram, Water tank, Jandrapeta, Chirala 9030212771
8 Vadaga Raja Master Weaver Hastinapuram, Opp. Lorry kata, Jandrapeta, Chirala 9908454241
9 Balaji Handlooms Manufacturer/ Seller Vasu Balaji Opp Vishal Mega Mart, Ramakrishnapuram, Chirala balusmart09@gmail.com Ph. No.9392233007
10 Meghana Handlooms Manufacturer/ Seller Macharla Hemanth Kumar, Hastinapuram, Near Larikata street, Jandrapet, Chirala khemanth647@gmail.com Ph. No.9951688904
11 RS Kanchi Pattu and Cotton Handlooms Manufacturer/ Seller Leela SrinivasaRao, Opp. Sivalayam Street, Jandrapet, Chirala srinivasalella8@gmail.com Phone No:9160004453
12 Chaitanya Handlooms Manufacturer/ Seller Sajya Vamsi 9-57, Vinayakanagar, Devangapuri, Chirala sajja.vamsi4444@gmail.com Phone No:8801437843
13 APCO APEX Society Vijayawada 8662430547

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# Showrooms of Kuppadam Saree Suppliers

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# KSR Handlooms Campus and Store unit

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# APCO Showroom in Bangalore